Wristwatches & Pocket Watches

More than half of the luxury watches sold in the world today come from Switzerland, and the principal brands nearly all proudly display the "Swiss Made" label. As the largest Swiss auction house, it naturally follows that we organize dedicated auctions for rare wristwatches and pocket watches. Men’s wristwatches from major brands from the 40s, 50s and 60s are by far the fastest-growing category in these sales, led by Patek Philippe, and closely followed by vintage Rolex, Vacheron Constantin, A. Lange & Söhne, Audemars Piguet, IWC and Breguet watches, all of which are regularly featured in our auctions.

Contact / Information

Uwe Vischer

Hardturmstrasse 102
8031 Zurich
vischer@kollerauctions.com
+41 44 445 63 59

Upcoming auctions

A193 - Wristwatches & Pocketwatches
24.06.2020
A195 - Wristwatches & Pocketwatches
02.12.2020

Past auctions

A191 - Wristwatches & Pocketwatches
04.12.2019
 
A189 - Wristwatches & Pocketwatches
26.06.2019
 
A187 - Wristwatches & Pocketwatches
05.12.2018
 
A185 - Wristwatches & Pocketwatches
27.06.2018
 
Patek Philippe Chronograph with Perpetual Calendar, 1998.
CHF 134 500

Patek Philippe Chronograph with Perpetual Calendar, 1998.

Platinum 950.
Ref. 3970 E. Like-new, screw-down case no. 4025571, with sapphire glass exhibition back. Black, glossy dial, set with 11 diamonds, and perpetual calendar, moon phase, 24-hour sub-dial and leap-year indicator, chronograph with minute sub-dial. High-grade manually-wound movement no. 3045733, cal. CH 27-70 Q with chronograph and perpetual calendar. Patek Philippe crocodile leather band with platinum fold-over clasp. D 36.5 mm.
This watch is being put on offer by its first owner. This iconic Patek Philippe watch is in exceptionally good condition, with all the accessories, including the second case back.

Sold for CHF 134 500 (including buyer’s premium)

A191 / 2892
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Patek Philippe Chronograph with Perpetual Calendar, 1998.
Patek Philippe Platinum Nautilus, 1982.
CHF 73 500

Patek Philippe Platinum Nautilus, 1982.

Platinum 950.
Ref. 3800/3. Very rare, early Nautilus. Heavy case no. 556.827, with diamond bezel with 40 diamonds totaling ca. 0.96 ct. Dial featuring 11 diamonds, and with the date at 3h. Fine, automatic movement No. 1.422.373, Cal. 335 SC with central second hand. Nautilus link band with fold-over clasp in platinum, wrist size 19.5 cm. D 35 mm.
This Patek Philippe "icon" in platinum was produced in very small quantities from 1981 to 2002. Only 7 pieces are known to exist. The watch on offer stems from the 1st series which was produced from 1981 to 1992, and is is the oldest of this series on the market. The original platinum diamond bezel has the correct number 827. We would like to thank Dr. Helmut Crott for his research on this watch.

Sold for CHF 73 500 (including buyer’s premium)

A191 / 2893
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Patek Philippe Platinum Nautilus, 1982.
Patek Philippe Nautilus, 2008.
CHF 61 300

Patek Philippe Nautilus, 2008.

Pink gold 750.
Ref. 5712 R, almost like-new case no. 4444621. Sapphire glass back. Brown and anthracite-colored dial with moon phase, date and power reserve. Automatic movement no. 3175326, cal. 240. Patek Philippe crocodile leather band with double fold-over clasp. D 44 x 43 mm.

Sold for CHF 61 300 (including buyer’s premium)

A191 / 2891*
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Patek Philippe Nautilus, 2008.
Rare Patek Philippe Flyback Chronograph with calendar, 2009.
CHF 42 000

Rare Patek Philippe Flyback Chronograph with calendar, 2009.

Platinum 950.
Ref. 5960 P. Heavy case no. 4478407 with screw-down sapphire glass exhibition back. Anthracite dial with minute and hour subdials for the chronograph, day-and-night indicator, power reserve, day of the week, month and date. Fine, automatic movement no. 3505165, cal. CH 28-520. Dark brown crocodile leather band with original fold-over clasp in platinum. D 40.5 mm.

Sold for CHF 42 000 (including buyer’s premium)

A191 / 2890*
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Rare Patek Philippe Flyback Chronograph with calendar, 2009.
Audemars Piguet, Royal Oak Offshore, 2013.
CHF 34 460

Audemars Piguet, Royal Oak Offshore, 2013.

Pink gold 750 and ceramics.
Ref. 26400. Large, heavy case no. H52261-0807 with screw-down exhibition back and ceramic bezel. Black chronograph dial with silver minute, hour and second sub-dials, date at 3h. In-house, automatic chronograph movement no. 829649, cal. 3126/3840. Caoutchouc band with AP tang buckle in gold. D 45 mm.

Sold for CHF 34 460 (including buyer’s premium)

A191 / 2881*
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Audemars Piguet, Royal Oak Offshore, 2013.
Patek Philippe, Jumbo Nautilus, ca. 1979.
CHF 119 860

Patek Philippe, Jumbo Nautilus, ca. 1979.

Stainless steel.
Reference 3700/1, case No. 538864 with sapphire glass, black dial with applied indices and luminous hands. Flat Automatic movement No. 1308986 Cal. 28-255 C. Nautilus stainless-steel link band with fold-over clasp, wrist size ca. 18.5 cm. D 42 x 44 mm.
With an excerpt from the Patek Philippe Archives: Manufactured in 1979, and sold in December 1980. The watch is in an exceptionally fine condition. The case- and band contours are very well preserved, the band links are very tight. The Sigma dial is virtually flawless.

Sold for CHF 119 860 (including buyer’s premium)

A189 / 2852
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Patek Philippe, Jumbo Nautilus, ca. 1979.
Patek Philippe, "Perpetual Calendar", 2007.
CHF 63 740

Patek Philippe, "Perpetual Calendar", 2007.

White gold 750.
Ref. 5140 G. Almost like-new, flat case No. 4382707 with sapphire glass exhibition back. Fine, silver-plated dial with perpetual calendar, moon phase, 24-hour sub-dial, and leap-year indicator. Sophisticated automatic movement No. 3129655, Cal. 240 Q. Patek Philippe crocodile leather band with original fold-over clasp in white gold. D 37.5 mm.
An exquisite watch in mint condition, with all its accessories. From the first owner.

Sold for CHF 63 740 (including buyer’s premium)

A189 / 2845
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Patek Philippe, "Perpetual Calendar", 2007.
Patek Philippe, Minute Repeater with Chronograph, 1889.
CHF 22 260

Patek Philippe, Minute Repeater with Chronograph, 1889.

Pink gold 750.
Rare, fine Patek Philippe savonnette pocket watch. Heavy "pomme et gouge" case No. 65360 with engraved monogram on the sprung cover. The inner dust cover engraved : "A.H. Rodanet, Constructeur de Chronomètres, 36 Rue Vivienne, Paris 8391". The side with a slider for the minute repeater, pusher at 5h for the chronograph. Exquisite enamel dial with black, Roman numerals and minutes in gold. Original blued hands. High-grade Patek Philippe bridge lever movement No. 65360 with Geneva stripes, wolf's tooth winding, compensation balance with Breguet spring. Minute repeater on 2 gongs. Chronograph work, with polished edges. D 54 mm.
This watch stands out due to its exceptionally good condition, the immaculate dial, the fine original hands, and the complicated movement.

Sold for CHF 22 260 (including buyer’s premium)

A189 / 2848*
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Patek Philippe, Minute Repeater with Chronograph, 1889.
Like new, limited edition Patek Philippe Jubilee Chronograph, 2015.
CHF 60 500

Like new, limited edition Patek Philippe Jubilee Chronograph, 2015.

Yellow gold 750.
Ref. 5975 J, very attractive case No. 6056746, the back engraved: "Patek Philippe Geneve, 150 Anniversaire 1839 - 2014". Silver-plated dial with pulsometer, telemeter and tachymeter. Ultra-fine automatic flyback chronograph movement No. 5885959, Cal. CH 28-520. Patek Philippe crocodile leather band with original fold-over clasp in gold, signed: "Patek Philippe 1839 - 2014". D 40 mm.
This exclusive, like-new chronograph in yellow gold is one of a limited series of 400. The new caliber CH 28-520 combines tradition with innovation. The traditional column wheel chronograph is combined with a modern vertical coupling which prohibits the chronograph hand from jumping forwards or backwards, when starting a time measurement. Since this coupling functions virtually without any wear, the chronograph hand can remain continuously engaged and can be used as a normal second hand. The flyback function, activated by pressing the pusher at 4h, enables a new time measurement at any time, without the need for the chronograph to be stopped and reset.

Sold for CHF 60 500 (including buyer’s premium)

A187 / 2869*
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Like new, limited edition Patek Philippe Jubilee Chronograph, 2015.
Rolex Cosmograph Daytona, SIGMA dial, ca. 1975.
CHF 48 500

Rolex Cosmograph Daytona, SIGMA dial, ca. 1975.

Stainless steel.
Ref. 6265/6263, screw-down case No. 3976487 with screw-down pushers and plexiglass. "Sigma" dial with applied indices in solid white gold, signed: Rolex Oyster Cosmograph. Manually-wound chronograph Cal. 727. Rolex Oyster band with fold-over clasp 78350, end links 557, wrist size ca. 19 cm. D 37 mm.

Sold for CHF 48 500 (including buyer’s premium)

A187 / 2855*
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Rolex Cosmograph Daytona, SIGMA dial, ca. 1975.
Patek Philippe Nautilus, diamond Gentleman's watch, 1980s.
CHF 24 500

Patek Philippe Nautilus, diamond Gentleman's watch, 1980s.

Yellow gold 750.
Ref. 3800/3, waterproof case No. 556806, the bezel set with brilliant-cut diamonds weighing ca. 0.87 ct. Dial with diamond indices, central second, and date at 3h. Very fine automatic movement No. 1420553, Cal. 335 SC with gold rotor. Gold band with fold-over clasp, wrist size ca. 18.5 cm. D 36 x 38 mm.

Sold for CHF 24 500 (including buyer’s premium)

A187 / 2870*
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Patek Philippe Nautilus, diamond Gentleman's watch, 1980s.
Rare, early Breguet 2-day Marine Chronometer, 1819 - 1847.
CHF 23 300

Rare, early Breguet 2-day Marine Chronometer, 1819 - 1847.

Mahogany.
Exceptionally well-preserved, finely grained mahogany box in 3 parts. The hinged upper cover opens upon pushing a button. Brass-framed glass. Brass cardanic suspension. Matte-finished, silver-plated dial signed: Breguet Neveu & Comp,ie. No 575, Depot de la Marine A1. Fine chronometer movement with two spring barrels, spring detent escapement with cylindrical spring, and "parachute" shock protection for the balance wheel. D 19.5 x 18.5 x 19.5 cm.
According to the excerpt from the Breguet Archives, this watch was sold in 1819 as Breguet No. 3070 "A1" to Captain Houssart of the Chevalier et Company for 2000 francs. In 1845, Breguet bought the Marine Chronometer back, restored it, and renumbered it No. 575. On 30 December 1847, Breguet sold this chronometer to the French Marine Ministry for 2400 francs.

Sold for CHF 23 300 (including buyer’s premium)

A187 / 2884*
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Rare, early Breguet 2-day Marine Chronometer, 1819 - 1847.
Very rare Rolex Automatic Watch with Calendar and Moon Phase, ca. 1950.
CHF 90 500

Very rare Rolex Automatic Watch with Calendar and Moon Phase, ca. 1950.

Yellow gold 750.
Ref. 8171, so-called "Padellone". Large case in 3 parts, No. 1xx, original Rolex Super Oyster crown (not screwed). Silver-plated, 2-tone dial with applied indices and original hands, applied "short" Rolex crown at 12h (the early watches feature this typical crown of the 1940s). 10 1/2"' automatic chronometer movement No. 102xx / G 50xx. Leather band with Rolex gilt tang buckle. D 38 mm.
With Rolex box.

Sold for CHF 90 500 (including buyer’s premium)

A185 / 2576*
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Very rare Rolex Automatic Watch with Calendar and Moon Phase, ca. 1950.
Patek Philippe flyback chronograph with date, 2009.
CHF 44 900

Patek Philippe flyback chronograph with date, 2009.

Platinum 950.
Ref. 5960 P. Heavy case No. 4457395 with screw-down, sapphire glass exhibition back. Anthracite dial with minute and hour sub-dial for the chronograph, day and night indicator, power reserve, day of the week, month and date. Very fine automatic movement No. 3504644, Cal. CH 28-520. Dark brown crocodile leather band with original fold-over clasp in platinum. D 40.5 mm.

Sold for CHF 44 900 (including buyer’s premium)

A185 / 2592
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Patek Philippe flyback chronograph with date, 2009.
Girard Perregaux, Tourbillon, 1867.
CHF 38 900

Girard Perregaux, Tourbillon, 1867.

Yellow gold 750.
Heavy, exceptionally well-preserved, engine-turned savonette case No. 48989. The inside of the case cover, likewise engine-turned. Finely engraved dust cover: "Chronometre Tourbillon, Exposition Universelle Paris 1867". At this world exposition, Girard Perregaux was awarded with a medal for the exquisite work. White enamel dial with original gold hands. Additional, silver dial with applied gold, numbered 48989. Very fine new-silver bridge with Geneva stripes and mirror-polished gears in red gold. 1-minute tourbillon cage after Ernest Guinand with pivoted detent escapement. Compensation balance with Breguet spring. D 54 mm.
A similar watch is described in: "Das Tourbillon" by Reinhard Meis, pages 126-127.

Sold for CHF 38 900 (including buyer’s premium)

A185 / 2581
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Girard Perregaux, Tourbillon, 1867.
Audemars Piguet Perpetual Calendar, ca. 1995.
CHF 29 300

Audemars Piguet Perpetual Calendar, ca. 1995.

Platinum 950.
Classic case B 89981, No. 019 with sapphire glass pressed back, skeleton dial with perpetual calendar and moon phase. Very fine skeleton automatic movement No. 225944, Cal. 2120/1 with 21 carat gold rotor. Audemars Piguet crocodile leather band with original, platinum tang buckle. D 36 mm.

Sold for CHF 29 300 (including buyer’s premium)

A185 / 2559
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Audemars Piguet Perpetual Calendar, ca. 1995.
Patek Philippe, very rare Perpetual Calendar, 1985.
CHF 210 000

Patek Philippe, very rare Perpetual Calendar, 1985.

Yellow gold 750.
Ref. 3450, exceptionally well-preserved case No. 2.808.597. Silver-plated dial with applied gold indices, gold hands, perpetual calendar with leap year indicator in Roman numerals, and moon phase. Signed Patek Philippe, and retailer's signature: GÜBELIN. Ultra-fine automatic movement No. 1.119.815, Caliber 27-460 QB. Patek Philippe crocodile leather band with original tang buckle in gold. Case, dial, and movement signed. D 37.5 mm.

Sold for CHF 210 000 (including buyer’s premium)

A183 / 2555*
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Patek Philippe, very rare Perpetual Calendar, 1985.
Rolex GMT Master II with diamonds, rubies and sapphires, 2015.
CHF 46 100

Rolex GMT Master II with diamonds, rubies and sapphires, 2015.

Yellow gold 750.
Ref. 116758. Like-new case No. 8C392642 with 76 diamonds. Bezel with 18 baguette-cut diamonds, 18 baguette-cut sapphires, and 23 baguette-cut diamonds. Rolex automatic movement Cal. 3186. Oyster band with flip-lock fold-over clasp. Wrist size 17.5 cm. D 41 mm.

Sold for CHF 46 100 (including buyer’s premium)

A183 / 2542
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Rolex GMT Master II with diamonds, rubies and sapphires, 2015.
Rolex Day Date with diamond dial, 2010.
CHF 30 500

Rolex Day Date with diamond dial, 2010.

Platinum.
Ref. 218206. Large, like-new case No. 9FH24287. Ice-blue dial with diamonds. Rolex automatic movement Cal. 3156. President band No. 83216 with hidden fold-over clasp. Wrist size 19 cm. D 41 mm.

Sold for CHF 30 500 (including buyer’s premium)

A183 / 2541
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Rolex Day Date with diamond dial, 2010.
Rolex Day Date with diamond and ruby dial, 2010.
CHF 24 500

Rolex Day Date with diamond and ruby dial, 2010.

Yellow gold 750.
Ref. 218238. Large, like-new case No. M879731. Champagne-colored dial with baguette-cut diamonds and rubies. Rolex Automatic movement Cal. 3156. President band No. 83218 with hidden fold-over clasp. Wrist size 19 cm. D 41.5 mm.

Sold for CHF 24 500 (including buyer’s premium)

A183 / 2544
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Rolex Day Date with diamond and ruby dial, 2010.
Jaeger LeCoultre Grande Memovox, ca. 2005.
CHF 19 700

Jaeger LeCoultre Grande Memovox, ca. 2005.

Pink gold 750.
Ref. 146.2.95, large, heavy case No. 0725. Dial with perpetual calendar, moon phase, year, and 24-hour indicator. High-quality automatic movement with alarm. Crocodile leather band with original fold-over clasp in gold. D 42 mm.

Sold for CHF 19 700 (including buyer’s premium)

A183 / 2582
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Jaeger LeCoultre Grande Memovox, ca. 2005.
Lepine, enamel pocket watch with digital, jumping hour, ca. 1800.
CHF 14 900

Lepine, enamel pocket watch with digital, jumping hour, ca. 1800.

Pink gold.
Large, flat case No. 32 with very fine enamel painting: A map of Southern Italy in transparent blue and with a very fine black inscription. Silver cuvette signed: Lepine A Paris. Silver dial, engine-turned, with digital indication of the hour in a window at 12h, decentralized minute hand, small second, signed: Lepine. Flat, hand-wound movement in the typical Lepine style: Separate bridges for the movement train, spring barrel mounted in overhang position, flat cylinder escapement. D 54 mm.

Sold for CHF 14 900 (including buyer’s premium)

A183 / 2566
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Lepine, enamel pocket watch with digital, jumping hour, ca. 1800.
Patek Philippe, extremely rare Perpetual Calendar, 1951.
CHF 114 500

Patek Philippe, extremely rare Perpetual Calendar, 1951.

Pink gold 750.
Ref. 1526, solid case No. 665497, the case back engraved: Francisco de Sola, 7 de Mayo De 1953, EMJ. Silver-plated dial with applied indices and Arabic numerals in pink gold, day and month in Spanish. High-grade hand-wound movement No. 966942, Cal. 12"120 Q, with the original compensation balance. Patek Philippe crocodile band with Patek Philippe tang buckle in pink gold. Case, dial, movement and buckle signed. D 34 mm.

Sold for CHF 114 500 (including buyer’s premium)

A181 / 2583*
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Patek Philippe, extremely rare Perpetual Calendar, 1951.
Rare Rolex Daytona "double SWISS", ca. 1964.
CHF 108 500

Rare Rolex Daytona "double SWISS", ca. 1964.

Stainless steel.
Ref. 6239 / 6238, very early Cosmograph case No. 923.299 with well-preserved tachymeter bezel 300. The very well-preserved dial still features the original luminous dots and hands and the extremely rare double "SWISS" imprint at 6h. Manual-winding chronograph movement Cal. 72 B, 3507. Original riveted Oyster band No. 7205 with ends No. 71, the fold-over clasp stamped 2/64, wrist size 19 cm. D 36.5 mm.

Sold for CHF 108 500 (including buyer’s premium)

A181 / 2551
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Rare Rolex Daytona "double SWISS", ca. 1964.
IWC II Destriero Scafusia, "Grand Complication", 1990s.
CHF 92 900

IWC II Destriero Scafusia, "Grand Complication", 1990s.

Gold 750.
Extremely rare Ref. 1868, limited series No. 15/125. Solid case No. 2537061 with sapphire glass exhibition back and lateral slider (fine laser engraving: EMJ) for the minute repeater. Silver-plated dial with perpetual calendar, moon phase, year, and rattrapante chronograph. Finely engraved hand-wound movement with tourbillon No. 2500053, Cal. 1868. IWC crocodile band with original gold tang buckle. D 42 mm.

Sold for CHF 92 900 (including buyer’s premium)

A181 / 2593*
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IWC II Destriero Scafusia, "Grand Complication", 1990s.